“An Accidental Porn Star”: David Mas Masumoto, Food Pornography, and the Politics of the Food Movement
Author : Shiuhhuah Serena Chou
Keywords : food pornography, David Mas Masumoto, food movement, organic farming, food justice
In this essay, I examine how Masumoto’s distress over his possible
food-porn writing sheds light on a food movement that, while entertaining
a sensuous approach to food and eating through visual and verbal exploitation
of images of food, intricately blends gustatory pleasure with ethical and political
eating and defines the flavors of food through white, elitist conceptions of health
and sustainability. His attempt to claim authority over the (organic) food infrastructure
through first-person, nonfictional narratives, or documentary film
of “real lives and real stories,” unravels a cultural milieu in which the appeals
of the cultures and ecologies of farming have lost ground to that of food in the
U.S. because of the unprecedented growth of the urban population in the
second half of the twentieth century. In this so-called “food” movement, the
geographical and ethical-political distances between urban consumers and
the sources of their food, established by the capitalist food industry, conspire
with both the desire for, and the fear of, the cultivation of intimate personal
or bodily relations with the immanence of food and agricultural production.
And, for Masumoto, this estrangement and disconnection from the “real” and
the immanent has propelled the reading of his intimate and visceral approach
to food and farming as pornographic—that is, as sexually seductive and culturally
expensive and extravagant.